KARACHI – This season, Fashion Pakistan Week hosted a line-up of 14 exuberant designers and their ensembles created with impeccable craftsmanship & finesse. Seven sent diverse collections down the runway on day one. The show was opened by Tena Durrani who displayed regal bridal trends from her collection Rara Avis, followed by Tales by Dheradun by Huma Adnan, Rivaaj by Lajwanti, Khwab by Zainab Chottani, Dazzling Dames by Aamna Aqeel, Gulabi Gang by The Pink Tree Company and a grand closing with Elements by Hassan Sheheryar Yasin.
Tena Durrani – Rara Avis
Day 1 had an impressive kick off with Rara Avis, by the brilliant Tena Durrani. An avid believer in women who pursue joy and happiness and strive to live life to the fullest, Tena brought light to her belief through her collection which reveals gently pushed boundaries of the traditional bridal silhouettes and color themes. Woven together with impeccable craftsmanship, the outfits seamlessly blended different genres of dramatic artworks and lush fabrics. Her collection consisted of different shades of reds, maroons and oranges with heavy embellishments, mirror work and a lot of gota work on the daaman and all around the dupattas. Not just that but models strutted down the ramp in velvety ensembles which were loved by many. Fauzia Aman closed the show glamorously.
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Huma Adnan – Tales of Dheradun
This Season Huma Adnan showcased Tales of Dheradun, which was inspired by the ethereal bridal aesthetic of the bygone times. The collection featured warm, solid colors that had a very rustic, chic feel. The work and embellishments were made from appliques and gota work which was reminiscent of the beautiful culture and heritage of the designer’s home town. Huma Adnan being an expert in fusion clothing, amalgamated timeless pieces with quirk, and even in this collection hints of pop colors and cuts that put a spin on the traditional lehnga choli were seen. Each piece had a voice of its own and told a story of culture, tradition and beauty. Along with her majestic clothing pieces, models strutted the ramp sporting ‘Craft Stories’ accessories, exclusive pieces made by refugees around the world, under the support and guidance of Huma, her team and the UNHCR Pakistan. Traditional work of ‘gota’ and ‘zardozi’ shone through, gave the bridal ensembles a touch of our heritage. Noor Khan opened the show and her sister Sarah Khan ended the show with Parisheh Adnan taking the stage.
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Lajwanti – Rivaaj
Rivaaj by Lajwanti brought out timeless traditional cuts and designs used in the pre-partition era. The stunning pieces evoked memories of bygone eras, with majestic traditional cuts calling on that time period through fabrics and colors including muted tones of gold, ice blue, beige, and mint green. The use of mirror work, glorified from the Mughal era, shone through and gave a cutting edge to the attires. From shimmery and glitzy kaamdani lehngas with sequenced gold embroidery on pink hued kameezes to shades of blue front open shirts with low neck backs with gold tie bags and gold tassles, the collection had much to offer. The showstoppers for Lajwanti were Imran Abbas and Sana Javed who effortlessly walked down the ramp leaving everyone in awe.
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Zainab Chottani – Khwab
Khwab by Zainab Chottani was an ethereal dreamy showcase inspired by the Victorian era. The perfect combination of opulent, traditional craftsmanship and antique supremacy, Khwab gave the quintessential vintage aura. Her collection had elegant pieces with cut work in her sleeves and borders, shaded dupattas, sari tops with bow ties, kaftan with shimmer and flared sleeves, tailored sleek silver-grey pant suit, a lot of nets on the backs, diamante work and a heavily embroidered cold shoulder gown. The collection celebrated timeless feminine elegance from subtle classic ivory to powerful hues that exuded charm and charisma, perfect for a fairytale decadence. The showstopper for Zainab Chottani was Mehreen Syed.
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Aamna Aqeel – Dazzling Dames
Aamna Aqeel’s Dazzling Dames delved into the regal pomp, pageantry and sophistication of 18th Century British high society and aristocracy. Dazzling Dames saw the use of structured silhouettes, contoured Basque waistlines, bias cuts, asymmetry and notch and stand-up collars, brought together with finesse by traditional and artisanal embroidery. The colors used throughout the collection were bold-sultry reds, black and claret, that gave a dramatic yet regal and glorious feel to the ensembles. The showstopper for Aamna Aqeel was Kubra Khan.
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The Pink Tree Company – Gulaabi Gang
The Pink Tree Company’s Gulabi Gang took its ingenuity from the Gulaabi Gang group that emerged in India as a response to violence against women. This fabulous collection was a reflection of that powerful movement. Sheema Kirmani opened the show where she defined the colour pink and reiterated the reasons to celebrate that color. The collection had all shades of pink with open front anarkali style shirts, gota work borders and trimmings, kamdani bordered shalwars, flowy chiffons, ghararas and lots of velvet elements.
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HSY – Elements
Elements by HSY derived its inspiration from natural elements, celebrating mother-nature where all life emerges on this planet. As the collection name suggests, the fabric and embroideries used drove sensibility and energy and were hand-crafted and hand-tailored in the purest couture manner. HSY’s timeless & classic menswear collection, tailored in a crisp and contemporary fashion, was for those who choose their own path and want to express their individuality. True to the HSY aesthetic each piece was timeless and elegant, from shoes to the hand bags to men accessories and gorgeous shimmering gold gowns, the collection was indeed a treat for all to watch. Bilal Ashraf, Junaid Khan and Shehzad Noor were the showstoppers.
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On the second day, the line-up consisted of seven designers as the show opened with ‘ChandBala’ by Wardha Saleem who brought out a brilliant take on antique bridal attire tailored for the modern day bride with folk music playing live throughout the showcase. This was followed by ‘Fleur De Lis’ by Sara Rohale Asghar, ‘Zartaab’ by Deepak & Fahad, ‘Lueur de Luxe’ by Maheen Karim, ‘Phool Bunro’ by Rano’s Heirloom and ‘Beyond Generations’ by Shahmeer Ansari. Winter/Festive closed with maestro Maheen Khan’s power-packed collection, ‘Raw’.
Celebrity showstoppers for some of the collections added further oomph to the evening with Wardha Saleem’s showstopper being Azfar Rehman with Motorcycle Girl Sohai Ali Abro. Ayeza Khan walked the ramp for Sarah Rohale Asghar, Yousuf Bashir Qureshi for Shahmeer Ansari and Hareem Farooq for Maheen Khan.
Show Opener: Wardha Saleem – Chaand Bala
The second day kick started in a glamorous manner with the singing sensation Ma Dhai playing folk music live in the background. Wardha used rich fabrics like hand-woven nets, jamawar, pure silks, velvets, custom digital printed silks and organza, her ‘Chandbala’ collection was as timeless as the regal legacy of the Chandbala (bali/hoop) itself. This rich-in-heritage line was inspired by the glorious legacy of the Sub-Continent, the home of the Mughals. The delicate and tasteful embellishments incorporated diverse techniques of gota work, age old zardozi, and kora dabka work. From sultry-grey saris and shirts to shimmering gold-silver stunning lehngas with antique hand-printing methods like block printing, foil printing and screen printing, along with experimental techniques like basketry, leather appliqué and Swarovski studs in Wardha Saleem’s own signature style, the collection had it all for the brides-to-be. Having Azfar Rehman walk the stage with Motorcycle Girl Sohai Ali Abro as show stoppers brought the collection to a close with thunderous applause for the sheer scale and imaginative use of fabric and colour.
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Sara Rohale Asghar – Fleur De Lis
Sara Rohale Asghar’s Fleur de Lis lived up to its inspiration from the historic association with the French crown royalty. Colors that ruled the runway during the show were hues of pink, different shades of red and blood maroon along with nudes and pastels. Fully embroidered peplum tops paired with flowy pants that had frills and tassels on the border added a modern spin to the bridal extravaganza that was being showcased. Her collection was an epitome of traditional royal embroideries and mesmerizing ornamentation, with the use of floral adornments, integrated with Asian tradition. Leading star Ayeza Khan gracefully strutted the ramp flaunting an ethereal heavy embroidered white ensemble that was perfect for closing the show.
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Deepak & Fahad – Zartaab
Deepak & Fahad’s collection Zartaab took us to the golden era of nobility. Inspired by art from the Mughal era and European chintz, their collection used a clean and classic colour palette of whites, cream, gold and black. With use of traditional yet modern embroidery techniques, hand-crafted embellishments, and hand-woven fabrics, Zartaab created quintessential pieces for the men of today.
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Maheen Karim – Lueur De Luxe
Maheen Karim lit a spark with Lueur de Luxe, her enchanting party wear collection which comprised of a range of silhouettes from edgy trouser suits to scintillating shimmering dresses and theatrical two piece sets. The colour scheme of the collection took the audience to a world of bold statement shades of red, coral, cabaret pink and tangerine orange. Fabrics saw the use of flowy chiffons with bejeweled 3 dimensional embellishments. Her pieces perfectly embodied the essential elements of the modern glamourous women of today; sensuality, glamour and femininity. With great design at its heart, the collection married rich colors and intricate patterns with tailored silhouettes and edgy detailing; the result was a bold collection, which was very wearable and much appreciated by all.
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Rano’s Heirloom – Phool Bunro
Rano’s Heirloom presented Phool Bunro, a collection that addressed the to-be married girl of today. Phool Bunro means the adorning of flowers, which partakes a grand place in traditional Pakistani weddings. Rano took us back to the simplistic bride. Her awe-inspiring collection strongly brought back effortless elegance in bridal wear, using a unique and vibrant colour palette with blue combined with rani pink gul anari to isphahan blue and zeher mora. Models walked down the ramp wearing gorgeously exquisite numbers with stunning jewelry with stones, embroidery mixed with gold and silver embellishments and gota work. The collection was loved by many as the audience applauded the revival of an age old style and some even gave her a standing ovation.
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Shahmeer Ansari – Beyond Generations
Beyond Generations by Shahmeer Ansari showcased the journey of a man starting from his graduation day till the day he leaves his legacy, to the generation after. Remaining true to its ideology, Beyond Generations had ensembles tailored to each of these occasions. Inspired by the life of a man, Shahmeer had a piece ready to wear for any event that comes a man’s way. Sharp tailoring and clean lines, Sastre Culture showcased a bold, strong and bespoke menswear collection. Staying true to the collection name, Shahmeer went beyond generations by having Yousaf Bashir Qureshi walk the ramp in a dapper white-black attire and seamlessly close the show for him.
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Maheen Khan – RAW
Maheen Khan’s collection Raw paid tribute to all the vibrant, passionate women out there. Women who know what they want and persevere through difficulties to reach their end goal. Raw served as an undisguised power to the millennial, career-oriented women and mothers. Hareem Farooq, the showstopper, effortlessly opened the show for Maheen Khan in a crisply draped bright red raw silk jacket top. From delicate silk embroideries to contemporary cuts, her pieces were like a breath of fresh air: comfortable, and soft to the eyes, yet stylish in an effortlessly chic Maheen Khan way.
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Fashion Pakistan Week Winter Festive’18 continued on Day 3 with a solo show by Deepak Perwani titled ‘Madhaniyan’. The avant-garde catwalk set up and astonishing décor was organized in a palatial garden of an enchanting mansion in Karachi, on the 30th of September.
Perwani’s collection Madhaniyan explores the journey and special bond between a father and his daughter. The collection display was high on the emotional and glamour quotient, portraying the tale of a young girl becoming a woman, then a bride and ultimately how her father gives her away in marriage, all of these phases were beautifully story crafted as each segment delved into depths of emotion, love, affection, hardship, heartbreak, and upbringing.
The show kicked off with a jaw dropping shadow dance performance followed by Pakistan’s most reputable celebrities walking the ramp including Sarwat Gillani as the first show stopper and Adnan Siddiqui and Mehwish Hayat as closing show stoppers. They strutted the ramp effortlessly in some of the most regal pieces from the collection. A total of 50 pieces were elaborately showcased, each even more majestic than the last. The bridal showcase incorporated the use of intricate embroideries in diamante and pearl sequins, sublime embellishments in the form of exotic birds, peacocks and elephants, and floral ornamentation. The use of rich and royal fabrics in a vibrant and broad color palette made each piece stand out. From heavily embroidered gold lehnga cholis to hand worked peplum tops, bell bottoms and sleek three-piece suits in all shades blue and grey, Deepak’s Madhaniyan had the perfect mix of women and menswear bridals. The collection showcase was an instant hit and his exquisite craftsmanship and elan in materializing his fashion vision through Madhaniyan left the audience truly mesmerized.
Prior to the show prominent fashion influencers, celebrities, designers and well-known figures from Pakistan’s fashion industry were seen mingling at the red carpet. Those spotted at the red carpet included Adeel Hussain, Nausheen Shah, Sana Hashwani, Sadaf Muneer Jalil, Sadaf Fawad Khan, Maheen Khan, Danyal Raheel, Hira Hussain, Sonya Hussain, Tooba Siddiqui, Freiha Altaf and many others.
Designer Deepak Perwani himself, also chairman of the Fashion Pakistan Council gave further insights into his collection as he explained, ” Madhaniyan is an amalgamation of a lot of my vintage pieces and 2018 pieces. This collection represents the journey of a woman from when she is a child to when she grows up and her father gives her away at her wedding). I hope that everyone who attended the show resonated with it and enjoyed the showcase.”
As the evening came to a close, celebrities were seen conversing about the timeless pieces Deepak Perwani presented and socializing over refreshments. Fashion Pakistan Week will flow into The Wedding Atelier a day later when Carbon Events and Sara Chapra curate an Expo about All Things Wedding under one roof.
The event décor was done by RAKA events, it was produced by the Fashion Pakistan Council, directed by Nabain Ali, backstage management was done by O21, the media and digital amplification for the show was managed by Talking Point and would have been impossible to execute without loyal partners including the official media partner TV One, red carpet sponsor Peek Frean’s Butter Puff, airline partner Emirates Airline, radio partner FM 91, beverage partner Aquafina, experience partner Discover, styling partner Nabila & NGents and food sponsor Cosmopolitan.
