Pakistani climbers Naila Kiani and Sirbaz Khan narrowly escaped an avalanche near the summit of Tibet’s Shishapangma peak (8,027 meters).
Tragically, two climbers from the US and Nepal lost their lives, and two others from the US and Nepal remain missing after being engulfed by massive avalanches along the main climbing route.
Sirbaz and Kiani were part of the Imagine Nepal expedition team, commencing their summit attempt on Friday evening. Saad Munawar, the expedition manager of Sirbaz, confirmed their safe return to Camp 1.
The avalanche struck the climbing route above 7,800 meters as climbers were attempting to reach the summit early on Saturday. American climber Anna Gutu and her Nepalese guide, Mingmar Sherpa, tragically lost their lives in the avalanche. Another American climber, Gina Marie, and her guide, Tenjen (Lama) Sherpa from Nepal, are currently missing.
Rescue efforts are underway, with bodies of the two climbers recovered so far. Mr. Munawar communicated with Sirbaz via satellite phone, confirming their safe return to Camp 1 after abandoning their mission.
On October 2, Kiani and Sirbaz achieved the remarkable feat of becoming the first Pakistani duo to summit Cho Oyu (8,201 meters) in Tibet, the world’s sixth-highest peak.
Kiani holds the distinction of being the first Pakistani woman climber to summit 10 peaks above 8,000 meters and the only Pakistani to ascend seven peaks above 8,000 meters in just six months. Sirbaz stands as the sole Pakistani to summit 13 peaks above 8,000 meters, with the added achievement of conquering 10 mountains above 8,000 meters without supplementary oxygen.
Karrar Haidri, Secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, confirmed that both Pakistani climbers had safely reached Camp 1.
In a statement, Kiani’s official social media page expressed deep sadness at the loss of four climbers due to avalanches and the mission’s termination.
Naila and Sirbaz, who witnessed the tragedy, have returned to Camp 1, deeply shaken and distressed. Their heartfelt condolences go out to the families and friends of the climbers who lost their lives.
