In a historic feat that has captivated the global climbing community, Italian alpinist Stefano Ragazzo successfully completed the first-ever rope solo ascent of the formidable “Eternal Flame” alpine rock wall, a 2,100-foot vertical challenge located in the Nameless Towers of Pakistan’s Karakoram range. This monumental achievement was reported by Climbing magazine, the world’s leading authority on rock climbing.
The “Eternal Flame,” established in 1989 by legendary mountaineers Wolfgang Güllich, Kurt Albert, Christof Stiegler, and Milan Sykora, is renowned as one of the world’s most demanding and technical alpine rock walls. Its remote location in the northern Gilgit-Baltistan region adds to the difficulty, making Ragazzo’s solo ascent an extraordinary accomplishment in the annals of climbing history.
Rope soloing, the technique used by Ragazzo, involves climbing with a rope for protection but without the assistance of a belayer. Instead, the climber manages the rope and safety measures independently, a method that requires not only physical prowess but also immense mental resilience and meticulous planning.
According to Climbing magazine, Ragazzo began his ascent on July 25, completing the climb over nine grueling days. His approach was a continuous ground-up style, without using fixed lines or descending until he had either summited or admitted defeat. “The objective was less about athleticism and more about overcoming the logistical and mental hurdles of scaling such a daunting wall alone,” the report highlighted.
Throughout his ascent, Ragazzo faced severe challenges, including a critical shortage of water, a situation that could have spelled disaster at such high altitudes. “Before dark, I realized I only had 300 milliliters of water,” he recalled. With no ledges to collect snow for melting, he was left to grapple with dehydration, a potentially life-threatening condition at 20,000 feet.
As he neared the summit, Ragazzo endured lashing storms that confined him to his portaledge for two additional days. Yet, in a final push fueled by sheer determination, he awoke to clear skies on what he knew would be his last chance to reach the top. “When I reached the summit, I realized I didn’t even know how many days I was on the wall,” he said, reflecting on the intense isolation and physical toll of the climb.
Ragazzo documented his journey on Instagram, sharing insights into the physical and mental challenges he faced:
Ragazzo’s achievement comes shortly after French mountaineer Benjamin Vedrines set the record for the fastest-ever ascent of K2, scaling the world’s second-highest peak in under 11 hours. These remarkable feats underscore Pakistan’s position as a premier destination for mountaineers, with its rugged landscapes offering some of the most challenging and awe-inspiring climbs on Earth.
The Karakoram range, along with the Himalayan and Hindukush ranges, continues to draw climbers from around the globe, each year adding new chapters to the storied history of mountaineering in Pakistan.