LAHORE- Sub-continent is known for its crafts and culture. The people of India and Pakistan wear one of the most creative and beautiful fabric, footwear for centuries. One of the famous footwear of Subcontinent is called as’Khussa’ or ‘Mojari’.
Khussa is made by artisans mostly using vegetable-tanned leather. The uppers are made of one piece of leather or textile embroidered and embellished with brass nails, cowry shells, mirrors, bells and ceramic beads. Even the bonding from the upper to the sole is done by a cotton thread that is not only eco-friendly but also enmeshes the leather fibers with great strength. Some product range also uses bright and ornate threads.
It can be said that the present day khussa alternately known as mojari has evolved from its predecessor that was worn centuries ago. At first, they were simple shoes made of wood, possibly an influence of China. However they were not comfortable or feasible to wear in the cold weather. Later, as leather was easily available, people began making shoes from it. It was initially worn by the common man.
During the 17th century, it was the Mughal King Jahangir who introduced the embellished version. Such a khussa was made of the best leather embedded with real gems and embroidered beautifully with threads of real gold and silver. That is how it got its name Saleem Shahi, which was the nickname of Jahangir. As the beloved wife of Emperor Jahangir, ‘Nur Jahan’ was the designer of khussa and she named the footwear as ‘ Saleem Shahi’. It soon became associated with Nawabs, rajas, and others. Later on, when the synthetic thread was used it became more affordable and was worn by all classes. Some specimen is on display in the Lahore Museum.
Khussas are made in many cities of Punjab, such as Multan, Bahawalpur, Lahore, Sargodha, and Sheikhupura, while they are also made in some parts of Sindh. These are available in all khussa shops throughout the country. Also for many years they are being exported and have succeeded in creating quite a niche for themselves. And since now a huge variety can be found online, that has given sales another boost, nationally and internationally.
These days khussa can be made on order and you can even specify your own design. While instead of traditional leather a wide range of other fabrics is being used to make them such as velvet, cotton, silk, jaamawaar (fabric) etc.
